I am stoked to be writing for Alternative London; a tour group in London's East with a social conscious, unearthing London's cultural, creative and community gold, and the gold I speak of today is big. It's revolutionary. It's Fashion Revolution Day in fact.
Today we remember the innocent victims of the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh last year, which highlighted the critical need for landmark change within the fashion trade.
We're talking fashion and creating a global movement to turn the industry upside down and inside out. To expose its falls, broken kinks and defunct systems that is more concerned about the dollar amount than the wellbeing of its workers and the state of the environment.
But most all, we're talking about sustainability. A lifestyle and way of thinking that honours social and environmental values first and foremost. I talk with fashion boutique 69b from Hackney in East London on what is means to be ethical and sustainable in an industry which thrives on competitiveness, greed and power plays.
Read on for the story here …
Who made your clothes?
A simple question but one that customers,
retailers, and even the brands themselves have difficulty answering.
This very enquiry reveals a lot. It bares
the story of a fashion supply chain that is broken because there is a lack of
awareness of whom is the face picking the cotton, preparing the leather, dying
the fabric, collecting the seeds.
It exposes an industry that is premised on
serving the customer with cheap and evolving choice at the expense of the health,
wellbeing and quality of life of its workers. A trade where we are more
concerned about the dollar amount and the value for money than the human
narrative behind the article.
This is at the heart of what 69b stands for; a local women’s
fashion boutique on Broadway Markets in Hackney, East London, which prides
itself on delivering directional, ethical and sustainable fashion.
Started
by Merryn Leslie - stylist and fashion editor for big
names such as Vogue, Missoni, US Harpers Bazaar, Michelle
Lowe Holder and Sandy Dalal - she wanted to do something much bigger in the
fashion industry. She wanted to make a difference so decided to launch 69b,
which exclusively stocks designers engaging in sustainability.
I was fortunate to speak with Harley Ray Barron, 69b’s art director,
and Christelle Blary, the store’s
manager.
“Sustainability isn’t all hippy, hemp, brown
and beige. It can be fashionable and creative, all the while protecting the
environment and its people. We have more than 70 brands which showcase this now,
including Partimi, Esencia, Marimekko, Studio Jux and Reet Aus, all of which
either upcycle, use organic cotton, vegetable tanned leather or vegan products,”
said Harley.
Harley recently completed a fashion degree at
university where she learnt just how appalling the industry is behind the
scenes.
“We really do know so little about the
conditions of labour of the people making our clothes, including their level of
safety, health regulations, how much they are being paid and the rights they
are allowed.”
“And that’s just the start of it. Then there
is the materials and where they are grown and produced, and whether people are
exposed to chemicals and pesticides,” she shared.
Christelle
has studied fashion since the age of 15 both in France’s countryside and in
Paris where she then went on to become a freelance custom designer creating
sustainable garments to measure for her customers. She says we are accustomed
to a fast fashion model now with high street stores receiving new stock weekly,
which is a ridiculous standard to cater for.
“Fast fashion is much like the fast food industry. You don’t want to eat junk and you don’t want to wear junk.”
A
passionate spokesperson for sustainability, Christelle says she often gets
frustrated with people’s complacency around the clothes and products they buy.
“I
get into heated discussions about the meaning of sustainability and why we need
to act now to create change. I am sick and tired of hearing the excuse that
it’s too late. It’s never too late. We live in innovative times and have the
available knowledge and intelligence to really turn the industry around but
there is resistance."
Christelle
comments that this resistance comes back to guilt.
“I
think people know they are guilty of contributing to the problems we see today
and decide to just switch off instead of taking personal responsibility,”
Christelle states.
But
the tides are slowly changing and this has definitely been the case at 69b.
“There
is more engagement and interest in sustainable and ethical fashion. Big brands
are starting to be more transparent about their products and customers are
asking more questions,” says Harley.
Christelle
adds: “At 69b, we encourage our customers to know their product, to research
the brand, to know who made it, and to become familiar with sustainable brands in the market. This is the best part of my job. Knowing that I am having an
impact on the people who shop here who will then share their new knowledge with
the their friends and family, and the ripple begins.”
“People
are starting to realize that sustainability is not just a word. That it’s a
lifestyle. That it’s a way of thinking. It means simple design, practicality, reasonable
money value, high quality and buying less.”
Today
is a monumental day for 69b and for others in the fashion circle alike.
Collaborators
and partners are calling for a revolution. An overhaul.
A global movement.
It
is Fashion Revolution Day; a day that calls on all people
to declare that enough is enough following a landmark catastrophe, which took
place in Dhaka, Bangladesh a year ago. A factory complex by the name of Rana
Plaza collapsed killing 1133 people and injuring over 2500. This is one
of many horrific social and environmental disasters, which occur every year
because of the defunct fashion industry we currently support.
It’s a day to highlight the true cost of
fashion and to
understand that we aren’t just purchasing a garment or accessory, but a whole
chain of value and relationships.
It’s an
opportunity to re-write a positive narrative where people, the environment,
creativity and profit are appreciated in equal measure.
69b
is supporting Fashion Revolution Day by encouraging us all to be contentious
customers and ask the question: who made
your clothes?
Ask
the retailer at the store, send a letter to the brand manufacturer, post a
photo , tag a video.
Be
more curious. Find out. Do something.
Wear
your clothes inside out today and take a photo of the label. Share it across
social media with the tags #insideout and @fash_rev
In
June, 69b will launch their new website – an online retail e-commerce hub -
where people can buy sustainable from anywhere in the world. The emphasis will
be transparency and traceability with each brand’s story profiled, and most
importantly, who made their clothes exposed. Stay tuned!
Tell me: Where do you buy your clothes? Have you asked yourself the question, 'Who made my clothes'?. Will you start to now? Share away below. Let's discuss.
Tell me: Where do you buy your clothes? Have you asked yourself the question, 'Who made my clothes'?. Will you start to now? Share away below. Let's discuss.
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